Pearl is a boy's best friend-The New York Times

2021-11-18 10:25:09 By : Mr. Jake Wu

For men, pearl necklaces represent the breakdown and support of gender norms.

A portrait of George Villiers, the first Duke of Buckingham, completed in 1626 by the Dutch painter Jansz van Miereveld. Michiel Jansz Van Mierevel (1567-1641), "George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham", oil on wood, Art Gallery of South Australia, HIP/Art Resources

It was on the pink carpet of the 2019 Met Gala that Harry Styles helped men re-recognize molluscs. The former British boy band member and co-chair of the event, dressed in a vaguely Greek style designed for him by Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele, including a frilled front and The bow-knotted transparent black top, high-waisted pants, patent leather high-heeled boots and a perfect pearl earrings are the same as the theme of the party-the camp-from Rembrandt’s 17th-century Dutch noble paintings (and of course, Victoria) Mill's paintings). Since then, the 26-year-old Stiles began to wear a string of pearls around his neck. He usually wears a boyish top: a plaid mani polo shirt; a Lanvin cardigan with the Babar the Elephant pattern; Magda Archer and A sour green round neck sweater designed in collaboration with pearl necklace lover Marc Jacobs.

The history of men wearing pearl necklaces-if any, searching on the Internet is dangerous-can be traced back to the early 16th century, during the Mughal Empire in India, when the emperor Babur and his male descendants could be seen Long necklace on her body. In Europe, Henry VIII wore clothes embroidered with them during his reign as King of England in the first half of the 1500s. In 1774, the mourning gown presented to him by Captain Cook on a voyage to Tahiti included a mask and a breastplate made of mother-of-pearl. For each of them, the ornamentation implies influence; in this way, Pearl predicted the cowboy's custom belt buckle, the Hollywood actor's private jet, the boxer Floyd Mayweather Jr. Rolls-Royce team.

However, the reappearance of pearl necklaces on men feels very fresh. In addition to Styles, the music industry, especially hip-hop music, has recently had some supporters, including Gucci Mane, Swae Lee and Future. As always, fashion and entertainment complement each other: at the Spring 2020 fashion show, American designer Ryan Roche (Ryan Roche) launched a male model wearing an airy, neutral tone V-neck, complete with several layered lines . A few months later, at the fall fashion show in Paris, Kim Jones paired his Dior Men turtleneck sweater and taffeta jacket with exquisite necklaces, loud brooches and elbow-length gloves, while Charaf Tajer was in his The popular element of the residential area, Casablanca, is added to the post-sports sports series. Although Mikimoto Kokichi, a pioneer of Japanese pearl cultivation in the early 20th century, said: “My dream is to decorate the necks of all women around the world with pearls” and his income source can be said to be halved, but his legacy continues in Mikimoto Comme des Garçons. A high-end jewellery capsule series suitable for all genders-modeled in its advertising campaign by a young man who is ready for a one-day acquisition.

In recent years, we have seen an exciting disintegration of the components of men’s clothing. Therefore, the illusion of masculinity has also been hit. But men with pearls, unlike, for example, men in skirts, do not ignore gender as they support binary. When Troye Sivan or ASAP Rocky is performing a song wearing one of the necklaces, it is not dragging. In fact, it doesn't really feel that femininity-even if these men are referencing and then subverting, a symbolic feminine demeanor. If anything, contempt for “dressing like a man” means an expressive act of alpha sexiness, just like David Bowie’s most masculine way when he puts on an eyeliner and a skinny striped “space suit” Ziggy Stardust. Pearls-hard and smooth, timeless and stylish, iconic and rare-provide a style introduction that allows the wearer to have it at the same time. They are both contradictory and fusion, and they are the gateway to genderless fashion, emphasizing the differences it aims to eliminate. Pearls are objects that rise from the bottom of the sea. They accurately represent their essence: a silky sphere that exists in a rock-solid armor.