This is why pearls are no longer expensive | Smart News | Smithsonian Magazine

2021-12-13 16:26:51 By : Mr. harrison zheng

It took centuries to figure out a way to reduce the price of pearls-whether through breeding or outright forgery-

Pearls have been valued since ancient times. PBS wrote that in India, the Roman Empire, and Egypt—to name a few—pearls were a sign of extreme wealth.

In view of their natural rarity and the difficulty of obtaining them, people have long tried to provide affordable alternatives to these ultra-luxury items. Look at these important moments in the history of pearl consumption:

Chinese farmers produced the first artificial cultured pearl in 500 AD

Chinese pearl farmers began to cultivate pearl oysters from freshwater cockscomb mussels. The pearls are small and-thanks to the molds used by the farmers-are shaped like little Buddhas. The American Museum of Natural History writes that these are the world's first cultured pearls.

The Gemological Institute of America added that these early "blister pearls" were flat and hollow, not as round as the pearls we imagine today. 

The first modern imitation pearl made by Jacquin in France in 1686 AD

According to Marie-Jose and Howard Opper in BEADS: Journal of the Society of Bead Research, the first modern method of making imitation pearls was patented by Jacquin of France in 1686. Although there was a record of making fake pearls earlier, they wrote that this is the first way we know the details.

Jacques discovered that "mixing ammonia with the scales of European freshwater fish produces a paste that mimics the luster of pearls," Oppers writes. "Use this paste called "Essence of the East" to apply to the inner surface of transparent blown glass beads. This method spread quickly in France. Then the inside was filled with wax." They wrote, It was still a popular method in the 1800s, although “the paste and wax would both melt in warm temperatures.”

In the late 1600s, several other methods were also developed. One involves suspending pearl seeds in a boiling solution of vinegar and turpentine, which softens the pearls into a paste. This paste can be carved into larger pearls. The other involves powdering the seed pearls, then making the powder into a paste, and then baking the pearls in large freshwater fish. (Why? Your guess is as good as ours.)

1896-1916 Modern pearl culture was developed by three Japanese

At about the same time, biologist Nishikawa Tokichi and carpenter Daping III independently discovered the secret of cultivating pearls. It involves piercing a bit of a metal core or shell into a specific area of ​​the oyster to make the tissue form a bag of pearls. "The sack will then secrete a nacre to wrap the nucleus to form a pearl," PBS wrote. The result is a perfect spherical cultured pearl.

Both Nishikawa and Mise tried to patent their processes at the same time. They agreed to collaborate on a patented method called the Mise-Nishikawa method, which was purchased by another pearl experimenter, Kokichi Mikimoto. Mikimoto has obtained a patent for a method of cultivating oval pearls, and through the Mise-Nishikawa method, he was able to make further discoveries. For example, round fragments made from American mussel shells are the best marine cultured pearl nuclei.   

PBS wrote: "Although Mikimoto is ranked third with his patents and secrets, it has completely changed pearl processing." "As a gorgeous performer and promoter, he entangled with jewelers and the government and accepted his farmed products. As a pearl."

For the first time, real pearls are within reach of people other than the super-rich. The company named after Mikimoto still produces pearls today.

Kat Eschner is a freelance science and culture reporter based in Toronto.

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