Far away from Paris, where high-end jewelry conferences are usually held every two years, some jewelry companies have introduced their new works to the world.

Give any friend a story

As a subscriber, you have 10 gifts to send every month. Anyone can read what you share.

Paris-As theaters, shopping venues and cafes here gradually recover from a long pause, the high-end jewelry displays that have traditionally accompanied this season's fashion shows are back. Kind of.

Some brands, including Boucheron, Pomellato and Chaumet, are arranged through appointments or virtual presentations. But several others chose the date last month and launched the collection in a destination away from the high jewellery center Place Vendôme. The starting price for this one-of-a-kind work is usually around 50,000 Euros (approximately US$60,000) and can reach up to several million US dollars.

For example, Chanel and Dior went to Asia, and Cartier organized a large-scale event on the coast of Lake Como in Italy, displaying 560 works.

"I think brands want to immediately connect with consumers and try to get back to normal-this seems to be a V-shaped post-war mania," Luca Solca, managing director of luxury goods at Sanford C. Bernstein in Geneva, wrote in an email Dao refers to the rapid economic recovery. "Because no one knows how long these positive situations will last, no brand is willing to waste a second."

He pointed out that compared with many past post-war recoveries, “consumers have accumulated a lot of savings during the pandemic, and the asset market is at its peak.”

The 123 No. 5 series launched by Chanel in Hong Kong in early June is a tribute to the 100th anniversary of Chanel No. 5 perfume. The series will travel to Shanghai in August, return to Paris on October 1, and then to New York in November.

Chengdu is a city in southwestern China with a population of more than 16 million. It is the location of Dior's 116 Dior Rose collection, which was displayed in the form of a fashion show in June, including a special design by Maria Grazia Chiuri, the creative director of the women's collection dress. Jewelry is now in Beijing.

In addition, in the spring 2022 menswear show, Dior also launched Cactus, a high-end jewelry necklace designed by Victoire de Castellane in collaboration with Dior's menswear collection art director Kim Jones. A spokeswoman said that this piece is made of white gold and gold, inlaid with diamonds, emeralds, cultured pearls and lacquer, marking the first time that the brand has paired high-end jewelry with menswear.

Cartier's extensive display in Italy included 90 works from the latest Sixième Sens collection. These include the Phaan ring, crowned by an 8.2-carat stepped ruby, set on a 4-carat diamond set on a hollow base, as well as small spherical rubies and triangle-cut diamonds. (This week plans to display a second wave of about 30 works in its Vendôme boutique, adding some newly completed designs-although the company did not specify how many.)

Bulgari also chose to show 122 works from its Magnifica collection in Milan in early June, which is part of the 350 works that pay tribute to the brand's hometown in Rome and its 137-year history.

Why would a Roman brand choose Milan?

A spokeswoman said that this means showing solidarity with the European city hardest hit by the new crown virus, as well as a "symbol of hope and determination for the future."

According to the brand, the most important work is the Imperial Spinel, which is set with a 131 carat gemstone and is the fourth largest spinel in the world (the larger spinel is set in the crowns of Britain and Russia). Lucia Silvestri, the brand's jewelry creative director, obtained the gem after a gem collector contacted her via Instagram, a spokeswoman said.

Louis Vuitton also showed a 90-piece collection at the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo in Monaco on July 2, which is the largest collection to date. This series, called Bravery, aims to evoke the character of Louis Vuitton. At the age of 14, he walked from the Jura region in eastern France to Paris and eventually became a trainee suitcase packer.

Approximately 60 of the approximately 90 works designed by Francesca Amfitheatrof, the artistic director of watches and jewelry, relive the life story of the founder in chronological order. It starts with a group called Constellation of Hercules-a configuration found in Vuitton's birth chart-and starts with another group called Tumbler, which is a reference to the company's patented locking mechanism.

This season also marked some changes in the two brands of Richemont Group.

As a member of the group, Buccellati showed a garden-themed collection called Il Giardino di Buccellati in its first full display. The collection includes classic collections such as rigato bracelets, but now with pink sapphires, diamonds and 20 carats of light color Reinterpret the green tourmaline.

Van Cleef & Arpels has produced four ballet brooches for its Dance Reflections collection, which showcase a wide range of cultural projects that have been underway over the years. The jewelry company awarded the Fedora-Van Cleef & Arpels Dance Award worth 50,000 Euros for the first time this year, and will sponsor the premiere in London in February.

However, some brands have chosen to display in Paris and other places in France. Now, Claire Choisne has become the creative director of Boucheron for the 10th year, and she has developed her own process to expand the brand's legacy. Every January, she will show Histoire de Style, which is an inference of the house archives, and in July, she focuses on innovative technologies and unconventional materials.

This week, at the Boucheron flagship store in Place Vendôme, Ms. Choisne will show Holographique, a 25-piece collection, she said to explore the relationship between light and color, through prisms or perhaps on the surface of soap bubbles. "I have been looking for the peculiarities of high jewellery that is completely different from other places," she said.

She believed that the opals were correct and used them to make Opalescence, a technique of enamelling, using two 72-carat and 47-carat Ethiopian cabochon opals and 1,500-carat opal beads to make a figurative necklace of fighting fish. There is also a partner single earring.

Other works, including the popular Jack-designed crystal and diamond iterations, are finished with fused titanium and silver oxide powder coatings developed by the French manufacturing company Saint-Gobain. This compound is commonly used in sunglasses and airport runway lights. Depending on the amount of titanium in the mixture or the amount of coating, it shows colors of different intensities.

Individual items with finishes, such as the crystal slice Holographique necklace with diamond edges, fixed by a 21-carat yellow sapphire, provide her with a lesson as a designer. "The hardest part is not knowing what a work will look like before the final result comes out," Ms. Choigny said. "It's like therapy—a lesson in letting go."

In an email, Taiwanese jeweler Cindy Chao responded to this sentiment. Among her latest works, which will be presented in a virtual way during the haute couture period, include titanium feather brooches set with more than 1,000 diamonds, garnets and tsavorites from her White Label collection.

Vincenzo Castaldo, creative director of Pomellato, said that in a conversation with American artist Sheva Fruitman, he reshaped the vintage works into unique new works for the second La Gioia series exhibited at the Hotel Clement in Paris this week. .

"You can get inspiration from your past, but really creating new jewelry from what you already own is a new idea," he said. "It's very challenging, but what surprised me was that it became very spontaneous."

For example, the neo-baroque Bavarole Trittico necklace incorporates the upgraded elements of the 20-year collection. Its cross comes from the Bisanzio series in 1993 and the Victoria series in 2003 and 2013. Together with the 2007 crystal pendants, it is installed on the rose gold oval bracelet chain of the Sabbia series in 2004. The price is 110,000 Euros.

Other displays in Paris include Chaumet's Torsade series, named after the ribbon curled around the Vendôme cylinder and presented in a light structure, such as the headwear wrapped in the flow of diamonds, and the Master Diamonds series by De Beers in 1888. Its five cocktail rings and loose diamonds are the first platform to adopt Tracr. Tracr is a proprietary platform it launched in 2018 that uses blockchain technology and artificial intelligence to track the provenance and other information of finished jewelry. De Beers has stated that it will be used for all diamonds by 2030.

Another pandemic calendar change moves the 74th Cannes Film Festival to July 6 (from the usual May date), which is a boom after the show.

Chopin, the official sponsor of the festival, said it will use it to showcase Paradise, a 74-piece series inspired by real and mythical nature. It includes a leaf-shaped tsavorite necklace and a double necklace with a 30.68-carat Fancy Vivid yellow diamond. Most of the designs will be seen on the Croisette, and the Cannes promenade is usually packed with stars and events, but a few works will be displayed in the brand's Paris boutique.

In this somewhat chaotic season, do another mixed demonstration.